Hi, my name is Chin, and i shall be your ranter for this post. I am 21 years of age, living in a south-east asian nation which I do not call home nor do i wish to. I am currently an undergrad who enjoys contact sports and thinks that this sounds remarkably like a personnals ad. I am someone who aspires to be a chef and I personally think this is the perfect time, as there is currently a boom in the industry. However, recently there has been a trend that worries me. The trend of the pretentious-know-nothing restauranteur. Now, i understand that some people love to cook; i do myself! However, there really is no need for you to set up a restaurant/cafe/bistro/whatever really, just cook for some friends at home, friends who wouldn't tell you how crappy the food is and how pretentious you are cooking things you do not understand. You get all the compliments you want, your friends learn not to accept an invitation to a dinner party at your place anymore. Everybody wins! I know i sound angry, arrogant, etc etc, but i have my own little reasons for it.
You see, the current boom in the restaurant business has due to the work of many hardworking chefs and restauranteurs who slaved their entire lives away. Wolfgang Puck for example. There's an interview where he talks about how when he first went to america and went to a club, he was
dancing with this girl and they were having fun and all that. The girl then asked him what he did for a living, and he replied that he was a cook. The girl promptly disappeared. Nowadays, girls throw themselves at anyone who call themselves chefs. Gordon Ramsay's a sex symbol for god's sake! Chefs get major media attention, earn big bucks; it's good to be a chef, and as such, everyone and their uncles are jumping on the bandwagon. New restaurants are popping up faster than an erection of a hormonal teen in the girls' showers .Therein lies the problem. Not everyone can cook well. They set up restaurants with amazing decor but with crappy food. However, people will go there because the amazing decor leads to major media write ups and people will go to that restaurant and end up paying for overpriced food because said restaurant needs to recoup money spent on decor. People will eventually get jaded and stop going out to new restaurants and the boom will come to a halting stop with people like Thomas Keller and
Gordon Ramsay surviving, while 200,000 culinary school graduates from the states alone(if memory serves me right) will be stuck without jobs. Also, why the fuck do people need to be so goddamn pretentious (I probably have the spelling wrong, irony)?
Let me tell you what set off this rant. I recently went to this cafe which also deals with books
dealing with all things culinary. This place is in one of those shabby chic neighbourhoods, much like the meatpacking district in new york. However rental there is relatively cheap(i think) due to the fact that the area isn't the most accessible as well as it being in an area relatively unheard of. If i don't make sense to you, don't worry, it's a local thing, just trust me on the cheap rental. Well, i went down to the place in the pouring rain, hoping for a little chicken soup for my tired soul, hoping to find someone who genuinely loves food, to prepare food, to feed people, to create dishes for others to enjoy. Maybe i'm a sadist, but i geniuinely had high hopes for this place, much like how i genuinely had hopes for other places which let me down with lacklustre food,
service and honestly, not much love if you ask me; if you don't love what you're doing, if you don't love food, i don't think you can make food that's worth eating.
Anyways, i stepped into the place to find a place that was wonderfully done up. The decor was beautiful, white everyone, minimalist. How nice is it you ask? Halfway through my snack there, a couple came in to take their wedding photos. Well, i struck up a conversation with the chef-owner and what i heard from her was a whole lot of whining about how tough the hours were, how tough the work was, and how it wasn't as fun as she though it would be. WHAT. THE. FUCK. First of all, why are you telling a customer that? Want to whine? Go look for your mother, she's much more likely to lend a sympathetic ear. Or maybe a bartender.
And what the hell is so tough about working in that place? There's like a total of 8 dishes that need to be cooked to order?(again, i think) The rest being salads, sandwiches, soups and desserts that can and most likely are cooked beforehand. This being an open concept kitchen, i could observe the badly designed kitchen which must have been a bitch to work in. There was no plating area inside the kitchen so that had to be done outside the kitchen, there were only 2 stovetops so I'm assuming they planned for light workloads. 2 frying machines. That alone doesn't really fill me with confidence. I could go on and on but I'll just take it that you get the message, that it was a very poorly designed kitchen.
The menu? I could go on for days about the menu., but i shall not. Just let me say that using pasta to cook a chinese noodle dish isn't exactly a fresh idea anymore, it's bloody boring. Anyways, has anyone ever tried sticky date pudding? PUDDING! MOIST NO? FUCK NO! Not at this place at least. Dry as hell. Hey, look at the bright side, at least it was freshly baked. Oh, wait, it wasn't? It was heated up in a microwave? Oh. Ok. My bad. You'd also expect a date pudding to taste of dates no? Well, i honestly don't consider a cupcake with a few pieces of chopped up dates and a sticky caramel sauce a sticky date pudding. Oh wells, at least it's
cheap right? Noooooo. 11 bucks for a dry cupcake, a small scoop of decentish vanilla ice cream, 2 slices of unripe strawberries and a gooseberry for garnish. What a bargain.
If this seems to be a very very long and angry rant for a crappy pudding, I'm sorry. I'm angry, I've had way too many crappy meals that I've paid over the top prices for. And too many cases of stomach upsets. Dodgy scallops. Mushrooms sauce that had the flavour of durians due to improper refrigeration of the durian cheesecake that the place also sells. (which also leads to a bad case of the runs btw). Rissotos that had split. Lamb cooked to charry rubbery "goodness" regardless of me assuring them that i wanted it medium rare and that I would take all responsibility should I die eating food that is flavourful and tender.
I'm sick and tired of places that serve me crappy food artfully presented. Anyways, as I paid my bills and was about to leave, I eavesdropped on this interview that was taking place of the chef-owner of said cafe/bookshop. She was going on about molecular gastronomy and talking about how interesting the things that this local place was doing. Yeah, things that el bulli was doing ages ago and this place stole wholesale, right down to presentation. She doesn't know what's going on, she doesn't understand why most chefs are getting excited about molecular
gastronomy. The new textures that are possible, it's now possible to make pineapple mash with xantham gum. It's now possible to make hot ice cream. It's not about the foams, the caviars, the techniques for techniques sake, it's about making a new things possible.
I know this thing is a chore to read, but bear with me, let me get the anger out and I am sure the next post will be better. We now have people who don't love cooking, don't understand cooking,
have no love for ingredients, don't understand the ingredients, and are wasting them cooking and gaining media attention which they frankly don't deserve because they're doing something new, because they're quitting their day jobs to set up a restaurant/cafe.They're ruining things for people who paid their dues in restaurants learning the ropes, putting up with crap pay,long hours, abuse and all that simply to learn a craft. A craft they love. If you don't love it, you wouldn't make the sacrifices.